Monday, July 13, 2009

Zombies

I finally found someone who is as terrified of zombies as I am. I mean, actually, truly scared of zombies. I always thought I was the only person on this earth who had an honest fear of them and did things to actively prevent my demise in case of an attack. These days, though, it seems like an attack by people infected with a mutated form of rabies or something is more likely to occur.

After doing a grocery store run, I'll fill up my pantry or fridge and then look at it, calculating how many days I could ration my food supplies. I also get a strange sense of satisfaction when I stock up on toilet paper and think, "Boy, I could really wipe my ass for months with all this toilet paper!" Okay, that made me laugh out loud.

Anyway, I wish I had some form of game. It would really help out right about now.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Nothing Much

This is one of those mornings when I just feel incredibly lucky.

I woke up early and made my way down to the beach. Not much for waves anywhere that I saw, but it was so nice out that I couldn't say no. I had a terrific time, even though I'm a complete donkey. I caught a couple of waves and realized I've never caught a wave that didn't put a smile on my face. Lucky, or just perspective? I've also never had a surf session that didn't make me feel better after than before.

Water is warm, air is warm, hardly a cloud in the sky. I got in early enough and out early enough that I could walk on an almost empty beach afterward, watching the shells collect in the pools of water left behind in sandy troughs.

I feel lucky to be alive, to be me, to have the opportunity to surf and enjoy everything life has to offer. Nothing puts that more into perspective than going out and paddling into the ocean. It does it every single time.

Speaking of lucky, I had a dream last night that a catastrophic 10.2 earthquake was about to hit California. I woke up panicked. Just a dream - lucky indeed.

Thursday, July 9, 2009






(Photos courtesy of Nan)

I did a beautiful ride up Blackstar last night. Though there were a few problems that occurred on the descent, the sunset was spectacular and the company afterwards was great. I've been meaning to try out some new dirt, and have been glad to have friends step up to offer to take me on rides I would've otherwise had to try out solo.

Mountain biking is so much different than surfing in that way; while I love to ride alone and it allows me to get in a nice groove, I really enjoy the company of friends when I'm out on the trails. Some trails are better ridden together, and the camaraderie can enhance the experience.

With surfing, I often feel much better when I'm out in the water alone. There are those cases when I love surfing with someone and seeing them catch a wave or having them see me catch a wave. Or the special people you love to paddle out with just because being in the water with them is good enough. I love the times when afterwards, you both smile and share the stoke of a good session. But mostly, I love the solitude and the quiet of being alone, moving gently with the ocean, seeing the sun breaking through, hair slicked back by the water, and nothing but the pure joy of waiting.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

The Earth is Not a Cold Dead Place